Ready to Make a beautiful Autumnal Wreath?
Step-by-steps below created by Claire Booker from The Little House of Happiness.
We can't wait to get into this one, and be the head turning front door on our street!
Wreaths are often associated with Christmas but more and more they have been popping up throughout the year. This autumn wreath has a neutral base so it can be re-worked throughout the year.
The base is probably the hardest part, it’s a bit boring but it actually gets you going, as we all know turning a project from a good idea into a finished item is always the hardest step. There are many bases that can be used for a wreath depending upon how big or small, chunky or petite you want the finished item to be. For example, wire rings, embroidery hoops or a foam base bought specifically for the task.
Next, what to cover it with, ideally something chunky to give good but quick coverage. After all, this is only the base; the real fun is the embellishment. For really quick coverage just wrap your chosen material around it. T-shirt yarn works well, String or Jute yarn give a rustic feel, ribbon or a favourite swatch of fabric could work too. Hessian would be ideal to stitch trimmings to.
For this wreath I decided a chunky neutral yarn would be my base. I love Bernat Velvet in Soft Sunshine but chose to use Bernat Blanket in Vintage White so that I could re-use the base throughout the year for Christmas, Spring and Easter projects too. I chose a piece of pipe insulation. This has a lovely solid feel and the size can be varied depending upon the size and style of wreath. I happened to have some of this lying around as I love to use it when crocheting some of the animals such as the Knitty Critters Flo Famingo or Luci Llama to hold their necks straight and strong. Pipe lagging comes in various sizes, is cheap and readily available at most hardware stores.
So, for the base:
Using Bernat Blanket in Vintage White and a 8mm hook
Rd 1 Chain 16, join the circle using a slip stitch.
Rd2 Htr into the 2nd chain on the hook and each stitch all around. (15)
Using Htr will make it grow quickly as they are long stitches while still maintaining a tight appearance. Feel free to place a stitch maker at the start of each round to make sure you only complete 15 stitches in each round and the work doesn’t increase or decrease.
After about 4 rounds check the circumference works for the pipe lagging. If it’s too baggy consider going down a hook size or decreasing the number of stitches in each round. Conversely, if it’s too tight to slip over the pipe lagging consider going up a hook size or increasing the number of stitches in each round.
Continue with Htr rounds until your work is the right length to cover the pipe lagging and then crochet the ends together using DC stitches that go through both the current round of stitches and the original chain.
Be Inspired by Nature
For inspiration for the embellishments I simply went outside. The colours of the trees, autumn harvest fruit and veg (pumpkins, apples), the handful of conkers and acorns stuffed into my son’s trouser pocket!
I also scanned through old copies of magazines and crochet books. 100 flowers to knit & crochet by Lesley Stanfield was full of fabulous ideas that I will use throughout the year on all different wreaths. An old copy of Simply Crochet Magazine (Issue 49 from Sep 2016) had a fabulous autumn wreath by Kate Eastwood. I also couldn’t live without Pinterest and gleaning inspiration from my fellow crafters.
The yarn I used for the decoration was Hello DK Cotton (the shades I used for each piece are in brackets). This yarn and a small hook (3.5mm) give lovely tight stitches that really emphasise detail.
Using a small hook and cotton can really make your hands ache so take plenty of breaks and use it as a good excuse to massage some hand cream in every now and again. Depending upon how you intend to attach the decorations you may wish to leave any ends longer to use to attach to the wreath. Wait until the end before weaving in any unwanted loose ends.
Create at least 3 in a variety of autumnal shades (Hello DK Cotton Col 118, 124, 126, 130)
Rd 1 - Dc into the 2nd ch from the hook and in each st to the end. In the final st place 3dc to bend around the end and come back down the other side. (31)
Rd 2 – 3dc, 3htr, 4tr, 3htr, 2dc, 3dc into next st (this should be the end st at the tip, you then reverse the pattern down the other side) 2dc, 3htr, 4tr, 3htr, 3dc.
Before going around the leaf a 3rd time create the stalk. Ss, Ch 7, ss into each st back down to the leaf including into the st at the base of the stem.
Rd 3 - 3dc, 3htr, 4tr, 3htr, 3dc, 1ss, 2ss into next st, 3dc, 3htr, 4tr, 3htr, 2dc, ss into next st and fasten off.
Choose different shades of brown (Hello DK Cotton Col 125, 126,128)
Ch4 and join with a ss into a ring
Rd 1 – work 8 dc into the foundation ring
(alternatively, work 8 dc into a magic ring)
Rd 2 – Work a 3tr-cluster into each st, join to the top of the 1st cluster with a ss.
Rd 3 – This round works into the spaces between clusters. Ss into1st space, work a 3tr-cluster into the space, ch1, move to the next space and repeat. Join to the top of the 1st cluster with a ss. Adding the ch between each cluster gives the shape to the pine cone and will make it easier to see the spaces in the next round.
Rd 4 – This round work a 4 tr cluster plus 1ch into each space. Join to the top of the 1st cluster with a ss.
Rd 5 – Repeat as previous rounds but return to a 3tr-cluster.
Rd 6 – Repeat as previous round with 2tr-clusters but this time omit the ch in between each cluster, fasten off.
Stuff your pine cone and use the loose end to weave yarn through the stitches on the top and draw in tight
To make larger pine cones simply add more DC stitches into the foundation ring and repeat the rows a few extra times.
The pumpkin is basically a ball with ridges on. These can be produced in a variety of ways but I really like the rib effect that you get from rows of trebles going around the front and back of the stem of the stitch in the row below. (Hello DK Cotton Col 118, 156)
Row 1 – Tr into 3rd st from the hook, tr into each st along the row (20)
Row 2 – Ch3 (this acts as the 1st tr in each row); Front Post tr (FPtr) around the stem of the 2nd tr in the row below; Back Post tr (BPtr) around the stem of the 3rd tr in the row below; FPtr around the 4th st; BPtr around the 5th st, continue to alternate between a FPtr and a BP tr to the end, turn. (20)
Row 3 – Ch3, FPtr around the stem of the 2nd tr in the row below (it should stand forward from the sts next to it); BPtr in the 3rd tr in the row below (it should stand back from the sts next to it); , continue to alternate between a FPtr and a BP tr to the end, turn. (20)
Row 4 – Repeat Row 3.
Row 5 – Repeat Row 3.
Row 6 – Repeat Row 3.
Continue to repeat Row 3 until your pumpkin is the height you are happy with then fasten off, leaving enough yarn to sew up.
I completed 6 rows before fastening off but you can play around with the number of rows or the original chain size to make your pumpkin bigger or smaller.
To make up the pumpkin, sew the sides together. Weave yarn through the stitches at one end and draw in tight. Stuff the pumpkin. Weave yarn around through the stitches at the open end and draw in tight. Before cutting the yarn poke the needle through from the top to the bottom of the pumpkin and pull it to squash the shape then tie off the thread/yarn at the bottom.
To Make Up the Wreath
Once you have made all of your decorations arrange and attach them to your base. You may wish to add a ribbon to hang the wreath by or other embellishments such as cinnamon sticks, dried fruit or your own Autumn crochet designs.
I hope you enjoyed this Make and it has inspired you to start looking for inspiration and techniques you can bring into play for you Christmas Wreath, maybe your spring and easter ones too!
Happy Making, Claire x